West of Nogales is a national forest and Pena Blanca Lake and White Rock campground. Very pretty hill country, and very busy with Border Patrol vehicles zooming back and forth. About 5 in the morning I woke up to the sound of pick-up trucks and ATV's nearby. A couple of hours later they returned. I could hear bits of the excited conversation of the B. P. guys. Apparently, they found some tracks, but lost the "scent". Also got to hear a number of coyotes (the real ones) during the night.
flowering saquaro
Outside of Tucson, on either side, is the Saquaro National Park. I started with the west side (in hindsight, the "better" side. At least those parts that could be seen without a backpacking trip).
at my campsite
The weather, which could have been very hot at this time of year, was near perfect at about 80 during the day, 55 at night. I spent 5 days at the G. Ray campground just outside the park boundary. Great spot, especially out of season as there were very few others there, and only $10 to dry camp.
on the museum grounds
at the museum
A few miles away from the campground is the Desert Museum. This is an excellent museum, with mostly outdoor exhibits. Tons of stuff to see, and I spent about 4 hours wandering around. One indoor exhibit was the Scatchboard area. Awesome in person! I had never even heard of it before.
lizard at the museum
All in all, I spent 9 days in the Tucson area, mostly because the weather never really got uncomfortable until my last day camping over at the Colossal Cave on the east side.
looking back towards Tucson
With the hotter days, I took the beautiful scenic highway up to Mt. Lemmon. A small ski area exists up there, but it's the drive up that offers great views at every turn. And there are lots of turns.
other side of Mt. Lemmon. An all-dirt road
for about 25 miles
Roosevelt Lake, east of Phoenix as I
continued north towards Payson
had a delicious BBQ pulled pork at The
Palace along Whiskey Row in Prescott
the old mining town of Jerome north of
Prescott. They have a good museum here.
I decided to drift over to the Prescott area where it's higher and cooler and found some free dispersed camping in the hills just south of town. I really like this part of Arizona. It's funny, some locals were complaining about all the Californians moving in and jacking up the prices. We were saying the same thing in Colorado about 30 years ago!
London Bridge
Once I reached Prescott and looked at the map it seemed like a good idea to go further west to Kingman, where there is a long stretch of Route 66 that you can drive. I just had to do it. My first day of crappy weather, it rained and was only 46 out when I got to town. In the meantime, my FJ needed it's 5000 mile oil change, etc. The nearest dealer (I always try to go to a dealer) was down in Havasu City. An hour later I was at the lake, where it was certainly warmer.
Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge near Parker,
south of Havasu
As a kid I remember hearing that they moved the London Bridge to Arizona. I've always wanted to see it. Can you believe that was way back in 1971?! After getting the FJ all nice and happy, I found a campground down on the Colorado River near the small town of Parker where I stayed for two nights. Lots of folks come here to run their boats and jet skis up and down the river.
Nogales-Tucson-Prescott-Havasu
May 8 to May 17: Southeast California The thing about traveling for months at a time is that often there is no plan, that wandering is what it's about. Case in point, I originally had no thought of going to California. But here I was, just a river crossing away.
passport book with stamps, map and annual pass.
Joshua Tree has a special stamp just for the tree!
Plus, I had purchased a National Parks passport book and I challenge anyone not to become just a little bit obsessed with getting the next stamp. That, and the $80 annual pass I bought down at Saquaro that gets me into any park, monument, preserve, you name it for free for the next year. The clock's ticking on that year and I want my moneys worth!
driving west on 'the 62' towards 29 Palms
among the rocks at Belle campground
I made my way into Joshua Tree on the north side at Twentynine Palms, a small, clean desert town that is mainly there because of the marine corps base. Joshua Tree (they're not really trees but are related to the yucca plant) is most interesting in the northern half of the park. The park is made up of two deserts, the Mojave in the north and the Colorado in the south. The north is higher and cooler, and it's where the trees are, as well as the awesome rock formations. I found a campsite next to some of those rocks in the Belle campground. Here are some photos of Joshua Tree. Click to enlarge (as always).
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree...Skull Rock
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree
A short video taken at Keys View, a high point of the park.
After a good day of exploring, including Geology Road where the pictures above of the lone tree and the FJ were taken, I drove down to Cottonwood campground at the lower, hotter, Colorado Desert south end of the park. This wouldn't even be worth writing about except for being attacked by a crazy scorpion!
I really hadn't eaten anything all day, so I thought a can of soup sounded good (and easy). I grabbed my small Coleman stove and reached into it's soft-sided carrying tote to unload it onto the picnic table. I immediately felt a hot stinging painful sensation along my left wrist and then my forearm. I'm staring at my arm trying to figure out what is going on when I then feel more of this hot stinging on the middle of my left side.
What the Hell!? This isn't a heart attack is it? I've never heard it described as a stinging sensation, and yet it is on my left side. I still can't decide whether this is something coming from inside or outside of my body. Meanwhile, I'm feeling more stinging, like hot needles. Maybe it's bees? That doesn't make sense.
Finally, I feel something on my skin and I slap at it twice with my right palm. Got it! I shake my t-shirt and out falls a whitish scorpion. Holy crap, I tear off my shirt thinking there must be others, but there aren't. This one scorpion stung me something like 8-10 times (counting the marks the next day). It happened so fast, I didn't even see it scamper up my arm. For about the next two hours my left side and wrist are on fire! It took a full 24 hours before things calmed down.
the dead scorpion
Cottonwood Spring, an oasis
Having been at the Desert Museum, I remembered the exhibits saying scorpion stings around here aren't fatal. But what if it's 8-10 stings? For the rest of that evening, I kept thinking, did I just feel my heart do something weird? That wasn't fun. The scorpion, however, paid the ultimate price. It must have been more freaked out than I was. All said and done, I still had my soup.
Salton Sea from the east bank
a road into Salton City
I exited the park on the south side and took the 120 mile loop around the Salton Sea, an area that always intrigued me. It doesn't anymore. It has it's moments, but I wouldn't want to live there. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area would be a nice place to camp, though, if one crossed the border at Mexicali.
Big Bear Lake (it's really not so big)
From there I jumped on the 10 west to San Bernardino. Hard to believe I was this close to LA. Anyway, a road climbs into the cool, green mountains to Big Bear Lake and ski area. Very pretty up there. The nights were still quite chilly. They had had snow a week earlier.
a typical pine cone (pretty big)
dispersed campsite (bear?)
I spent four nights here, with two of those at a dispersed campsite. I can't be sure, but I was awakened one night by what sounded like the grunting and huffing of a bear very nearby. The second time I heard it I sat bolt upright and it had my full attention for about an hour, pepper spray in hand! Nothing happened.
oh yeah
Strong winds convinced me to move again, deciding to drive further north to Death Valley N.P. When I reached Victorville I got my first opportunity to drive historic Route 66. It was only about a 40 mile stretch up to Barstow, but still...Route 66! It was neat to be cruising the Mother Road.
entering Death Valley N. P. from the west
A long day and almost 300 miles before I reached the campground at Furnace Creek in the heart of the park. Camper Tip: there is a resort about a half mile up the road from the campground. I found out that one can take a hot shower (clean and private) there for $5. And you can use their pool for that same $5. It was 110 degrees the day I showed up...in the middle of May! The resort even has a golf course, the lowest one in America. I had to do a double-take when I saw it. I was told there had been very heavy rains here in October washing out some of the paved roads, including the one that leaves the park in the southeast corner. It still wasn't open so I elected to take the optional sand road, and rather than deflate my tires to get through the soft spots (the ranger recommended it), I simply hauled at 35-40mph. That was fun! The upside of all that rain is that there was a super bloom of wildflowers in February. I would love to see that someday. This park would be worth at least 3-4 days of ones' time, but I think that February or March would be better. 110 in mid-May, come on. Here are some pictures of Death Valley.
Death Valley
the Borax mule team. this is where it came from
these cliffs are called the Artists Palette. bad light
Death Valley
by far the driest heat I've ever been in, really
about a 30 mile sand road to exit south, just me
Here is a video of me at Badwater.
southeast California, about 1200 miles
A pit stop on the highway for fuel and some tacos and then right into Mojave National Preserve. From the lowest point in North America up to maybe 2000' and the temperature went from over 100 down to about 70.
the sand dunes of Mojave National Preserve
Mojave is beautiful and little visited and they have free dispersed camping. The ranger at the visitor's center pointed me to a sweet spot which is where I hung out for the next two days.
the lunch counter...please reopen!
Kelso visitor's center. the trains still run.
The visitor's center at Mojave in the village of Kelso used to be a train station, closing in 1985. This is one of the neatest visitor's centers I've seen. There is a lunch counter in the main room that I really wish was still open. It's the kind of place you'd want to order a burger and ice cream soda from. Maybe someday.
the area where I camped
could these cactus flowers be any brighter?!
May 18 to May 26: back to Arizona and home to Colorado
The weather turned on me again, getting chilly and cloudy so time to move on. I always seem to be chasing good weather or running from bad. Today it mostly stayed bad.
in Golden Shores
northern Arizona
This day was dedicated to Route 66. When I got back into Arizona I turned off the dreaded interstate onto the beloved Route 66 at Topock. My first stop was a bar in Golden Shores because their sign advertised broasted chicken. I love that stuff. The lady behind the bar tripped over a case of Jack Daniels right in front of me! She face planted right onto one of those rubber mats they have behind bars. Thankfully, I still got my beer, and my chicken. North of here 66 winds through the Black Mountains and then the towns of Oatman, Kingman, Peach Springs, Seligman and Williams. Here are some photos along 66 from Golden Shores all the way to Williams, the southern entry point to the Grand Canyon.
going through Oatman
a ribbon through the Black Mountains
south of Kingman
north of Kingman
north of Kingman
whole lot of Burma Shave "poetry"
Seligman was jammed with Rte. 66 stuff
...ditto for Williams
One of the shortcomings of a rooftop tent is that cold and rainy weather is a real drag. And I hate spending money on a room just because of the weather, but Williams was one of those nights. Get some rack time and head north to the canyon in the morning. I had been to the north rim when I started this trip back in October (see older posts), but now that I had both a passport book that needed a stamp and an annual pass that would get me in free, I had to see the south rim.
a lookout near the visitor's center
Even though the weather was crummy and it was only May, the crowds were still in abundance, and the parking lots at the visitor's center were a fricking zoo. I don't really like crowds in general and I was told they get about 5 million here each year. Oh, to have seen this area 40-50 years ago. I think if one wanted to really see the canyon, planning in advance and reserving spots for camping, etc. is the only way to go. I was basically on a drive by and stamp mission. Here are some more photos from along the north rim drive.
Grand Canyon
original studs
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
A video from along the north rim.
perfect road and big skies on the Colorado Plateau
near Second Mesa
With lousy weather I kept moving east, shooting for a place called Second Mesa on the Hopi Reservation. I was surprised at how beautiful the land east and south of Tuba City is. This is all part of the huge Colorado Plateau (mostly Navajo Nation land), so it's a lot of high elevation grassland with occasional canyons. The skies cleared and with very little traffic, no trucks and a perfect road I decided to keep going at about 60-70 down to a campground near Winslow.
they even have the flat bed Ford
not sure who this is supposed to be
Who doesn't want to be standin' on the corner? Well, Winslow now has a small park dedicated to doing just that. A few dorks like me had our pictures taken (I think we all had gray hair!). The surrounding stores sold a lot of Eagles stuff and played their songs continuously. I wonder if they get a slice? Or Jackson Browne for that matter, didn't he co-write the song?
the "backyard" of the trading post
A drive east along I-40 and then a two lane road north to the Hubbell Trading Post. This is the kind of place I might never have stopped but now there is a stamp to be had for the passport book. I'm glad I did stop. This trading post is still active and they have a room dedicated to Navajo rugs. One caught my eye. No wonder, it was selling for $11,000! I bought some chips and salsa, instead.
one of many ruins
The main reason for taking this road, though, was to see the Canyon de Chelly National Monument (pronounced 'shay'). Stamp or no stamp. I found a site at their Cottonwood campground for the night and went sightseeing most of the next day. The canyon is still being lived in and farmed and ranched right alongside ancient cliff dwellings. It's a beautiful, magical place. Here are some more photos of Canyon de Chelly.
see white tents of campers in field?
C. de C.
White House ruins from canyon floor
+100 year White House graffiti
White House from overlook
The White House is the most famous of all the ruins and is what you'll see the most pictures of. It's also the only one you can walk down into the canyon to see without a guide. There is a 600'+ elevation drop from the overlook down to the canyon floor. The trail is surprisingly gentle and it wasn't as difficult climbing back up as I thought it would be. Well worth the effort. Bring water!
the Four Corners
this has become a tradition of mine
May 21st and I'm excited to finally be heading back into Colorado. The road takes me directly past the Four Corners Monument, a tourist stop privately run by the Navajo. It cost $5 to get in. Let's just say that was a one and done. Go if you must.
a glimpse of McPhee Res.
I spent my first two nights back in Colorado at a campground next to McPhee Reservoir near Dolores, a beautiful corner of the state. It was very peaceful with only a few campers but my campsite and every other had a "reserved" sign on it for the big weekend coming up. I'll pass.
towards Wolf Creek Pass. that's a mark left by a rock in
the windshield. It was a new windshield when the trip started.
I was going to go to Mesa Verde to not only get a stamp, but I hadn't been there in over 25 years. I elected to move on, however, and went to another place I hadn't been to in 25 years, the Great Sand Dunes. Back in the day it was just the sand dunes and you could drive up and walk the dunes. Now it's a national park. Another stamp!
late afternoon as seen from my campsite
another view from my campsite
Now there is a campground in the park and I was lucky to get a spot when I arrived about 2pm. Like almost all national park campgrounds, everyone is way too close together. There's nothing else convenient to the park so it's the only game in town. There are free dispersed camping options in the park but the forest road had not yet opened due to snow. I would love to try that someday as the road goes up into the mountains behind the dunes. Lots of trees and streams.
crossing the stream
on the way up
Speaking of streams, the water was running alongside the dunes, something I'd not seen before. You take your shoes off and wade across and go on up. Because it was still May the sand was comfortably warm and I walked all the way up and down in my bare feet. It was the best pedicure you can imagine. The bottom of my feet haven't been that smooth since I was born.
the top is far right
on the way down
Some stretches of the walk are easy enough and others are discouraging. Where the sand is steep you can slip back a half-step for every step forward. I had to convince myself to keep going more than once. As usual, it was worth it. The walk/jog down was the most fun. This is where you actually seek out the steep parts and let momentum take over. I must have sank down almost to my knees with every step.
Here is (mostly) non-verbal video I took from the top. It was very gusty that day.
lots of rafters on the Arkansas River towards Canon City
Having done my hike in the morning I was able to take a leisurely drive up to Canon City where I spent the night.
the Gold Tour road. This used to be a train tunnel.
The next morning I drove the dirt road known as the Gold Belt Tour that goes from Canon City north to Cripple Creek.
Main Street, Cripple Creek
Cripple Creek is one of three mountain towns that got turned into a gambling town some 25 years ago, maybe more, in order to save it. Of course, none of these towns look the same anymore and the best part that is left of Cripple Creek is the name.
one of the remaining redwoods
Looking at my map there was yet another passport stamp for the taking. Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument was my next stop. I didn't know this but Colorado used to have redwood trees. They, and countless creatures got covered in volcanic ash. Then, back in the late 1800's and early 1900's this became a big tourist attraction and tourists would routinely take fossils and redwood pieces until they were in danger of disappearing. Not anymore, now all you can take are pictures.
South Park, CO
southwest Colorado, the return trip
After Florissant my goal was to get close to Evergreen and find a place to camp for one last night. I stayed in Meridian campground down the road from Pine Junction and I rolled into Evergreen the next morning! Another journey, eight months long, completed. 242 days and 14315 miles, to be exact. 173 days, 6950 miles of that in Mexico. I also snapped over 2700 pictures but kept only about 880 of them, and published 299 (1/3 of 1/3). And like every other trip south of the border, personal safety was never an issue. I'm currently finishing up a month (June, 2016) in Golden, CO where I've been taking care of loose ends and spending way, way too much money. In the next week or two I'll be hitting the road again, wandering I know not where. Maybe I'll see you there! THE END
